Moving from New York City to the Long Island Sound requires sailing up the East River, separating Manhattan and the Bronx to the west from Brooklyn and Queens to the east. Only the East River isn’t a river. It’s a tidal estuary and changes its direction of flow regularly.
When approaching the northern end, the “river” branches northwest into the Harlem River, and its northeastern extremity before entering the Long Island Sound. This junction is called Hell Gate because currents can be strong and come at you from different directions. There are eddy currents, rip currents and standing waves, enough to make you want to go back out to the ocean and sail around Long Island!
But after consultation with cruising guides and nautical charts, we were reassured that, if we timed the passage correctly, starting an hour after slack low tide, the current would be calmer and push us in the direction we needed to go.
It made for an amazing trip through the heart of New York City.
Sailing around New York requires constant attention. There are ships, tugs, sightseeing boats, pilot boats, police boats, ferries, floating tiki bars, jet skis and of course the famous hot tub cruise boat (see last post). Mariners are generally respectful of the rules and communicate with each other by VHF radio to avoid collisions. But this is not a place where you can set the autopilot and read a book while keeping the watch!
The long Island Sound is a 95 NM long tidal estuary running from New York City northeast along Long Island to its southeast and Connecticut to its northwest. It is only 18 NM wide at its widest point. There are quaint port towns, beaches and some larger cities, such as Stamford, Bridgeport and New Haven, Connecticut. And it has several islands.
In order to time our transit of the East River with fair current and get through Hell Gate in one piece, we had to leave at 1430. After fueling up and pumping out at the marina we set out across New York Bay, dodging traffic and trying not to be too distracted by the amazing skyline. We passed under numerous bridges, including the famous Brooklyn Bridge and the busy Queensboro Bridge on the way up the East River. We had clear views of New York icons such as the Empire State Building and the Chrysler building. We passed by the United Nations Headquarters. After veering to the east, we passed close to Laguardia Airport. Boats with masts higher than 125 feet are required to report to air traffic control to make sure they don’t interfere with the airport’s glide zone. We didn’t have to worry about that.
Given the late departure, we made a short hop to Port Washington in the Manhasset Bay. This is a nice small town and we were welcomed with a fun block party.
Tomorrow, we’ll be joined by Dan’s son and daughter-in-law, Mike and Lissette for the weekend. We’re looking forward to that.
14 Responses
Glad you were able to safely get past NY Harbor. That is a challenge.
You will be sailing right past my old stomping grounds of Niantic and Black Point, CT. I know the waters from the CT River to Newport, RI like the back of my hand.
Consider stopping at the submarine museum in Groton, CT on the Thames River (pronounced as it is spelled, unlike the UK version pronounced Temes). The first nuclear sub, the Nautilus, is part of the museum and you can go aboard. Further up the river is the Coast Guard Academy where the Clipper Ship Eagle is docked, when it is not out on the high seas for cadet training. Further up the river is a fleet of mothballed WWII naval ships, assuming they are still there.
Consider a stop along the north shore of Fisher’s Island, NY, just off New London, CT. Should be able to find some nice anchorages there. Across from the island is Mystic, Connecticut, where the old Mystic Seaport is located.
Be careful of an area called The Race East of Orion, Point, west of Fishers Island, and south of the Thames River. It can get quite tricky because of the various currents.
The ancient whaling island of Block Island, 14 miles off the RI coast is also a worthwhile stop.
There is a great blue fishing spot half way between Fishers Island and Block Island, directly north of Montauk Point. It is a shoal where the blue fish feed in a frenzy when the tide is changing. You will see a lot boats trolling through the shoal.
You may see lot of that kind of feeding frenzy in various places all the way up the coast. Any time you see the birds diving into the water with the water churning from the feeding blues, troll through it with your fishing gear in the water. Be ready for a battle if you hook one. They are ferocious and very good eating. Keep your fingers away from their mouths if you land one.
Newport Rhode Island is always a nice place to visit but prepare for boat traffic reminiscent of car traffic in Times Square
Further up at the entrance to Buzzards Bay is Cuttyhunk Is, just off the southern tip of Martha’s Vineyard, which can be a nice stop. Be ready for a lot of fog.
There are a lot of ports along the northern part of Buzzards Bay on the Rhode Island mainland all the way up to Cape Cod Canal.
If you go through the Cape Cod Canal, plan way ahead and study all the warnings because you have to hit the tide just right. The current can be ferocious
Woods Hole is another good stop, but again, read up on how to manage the tides.
Needless to say, Nantucket is a must stop. Don’t miss it.
Provincetown, of course, is another great stop.
Let me know if you plan to go into Boston Harbor. I think you would enjoy meeting my sister and brother-in-law who live in South Boston.
Have fun and be safe.
Jim
Hey, Jim, Thanks for all these suggestions. Who needs cruising guides with you around? Dan
Donna and I are enjoying experiencing your trip vicariously via your postings.
Just noticed a typo above: “The Race East of Orion, Point,” should read Race Point East of Orient Point (Long Island)
Hi Dan and Sandy
I’ve been following your journey…looks as like and exceptional adventure!! We were out of town so I left off at the Chesapeake Bay and now you are in Manhasset harbor. That’s one harbor (Hempstead Harbor) from where I grew up. Fishing off of Execution Light and camping at Sands Point as a kid with my own boat. Thanks for bringing back those memories and also terrific desk chair adventure!
Best,
Don and Lynne
Hi Don & Lynne, Welcome back. You grew up in a very nice place! We’re new to the LI sound so looking forward to exploring more. Oyster Bay tomorrow. Best, Dan & Sandy
My favorite beaches as a kid were in Oyster Bay
Any beach recommendations (on the Sound side)?
You guys are making great time, but seeing plenty of sights along the way. What did you think of Liberty Landing Marina and Port Washington? We are planning to stop at both places but may opt for Oyster Bay as our last stop before going through East River. Nicely done.
Larry,
LLM is fine and conveniently located to Manhattan (ferry) or Jersey City (walk or Uber). The staff could be friendlier for the exorbitant price they charge. Stay in the middle of the entrance canal. It gets shallow fast on the sides.
Port Washington is great with free (yellow) mooring balls and dinghy docks. It’s only 22 miles from LLM, but if you have to leave late for the current through Hell Gate, it’s a good option.
We’re moving to Oyster Bay tomorrow so more to report then.
Dan
I didn’t know that the East River was a tidal estuary. It sounds like a nail biter getting through it. Glad you made it. Hope to hear from you as you get closer to Bahston (meanwhile, bone up on your Bahston accent so people can understand you while you’re heah).
We’re looking forward to seeing y’all in Bahston (note the Southern – New England fusion)!
So great your family is joining you for a spectacular NYC sailing experience.
The Long Island towns and restaurants are so nice. Hold onto your wallets!
Once again, enjoy your blogs with extensive historic and geographic interests. Nice to recall some of these places in our travels. Admire your tenacity with water traffic and currents. The
Thanks, Donna!