The Outer Cape

Where to start? The tip of the hook that makes up Cape Cod, known as the “Outer Cape” was where Dan spent most summer vacations as a kid before moving to Europe. It was fun to relive those experiences, which included hiking on sand dunes, walking out on exposed sand bars during low tide, visiting Long Point, the very tip of the Cape, exploring Marine Specialties navy surplus store, fishing for flounder off of the pier, and wandering up and down Commercial Street in Provincetown, observing all walks of life.

Provincetown has always been a place of tolerance, accepting people not welcome elsewhere, as well as a gathering place for progressive-minded intellectuals. One could argue that it began with the Pilgrims on the Mayflower, seeking religious freedom, who landed in what’s now Provincetown in 1620. At the time, it didn’t offer much so they moved on to Plymouth, Massachusetts.

In the 19th century, a wave of Portuguese fisherman migrated to Provincetown, and continue to make up an important part of the community today, maintaining martime traditions, and culinary specialties such as baked goods and linguiça sausage.

Starting in the early 1900s, Provincetown became a gathering place for artists and writers. Names you might recognize include writer Normal Mailer, playwright Eugene O’Neil and (German) painter Hans Hoffmann.

In the 1950s and 60s, the hippy movement was largely concentrated in San Francisco on the West Coast and Provincetown on the East Coast. With love-ins on the sand dunes and pretty much anything goes in town, it was a crazy time.

Finally, starting in the late 60s and continuing strongly today, the LBGTQ+ community found refuge in Provincetown. During the AIDS epidemic, it was a welcoming hospice for those suffering with the disease. Massachusetts was the first state to legalize same-sex marriage, making P’town an obvious desitnation for such weddings. And today, much of the ambiance is garnished with pride flags and the flamboyance of that community.

What makes Provincetown unique is summarized in one word: acceptance. Whoever you are, whatever you believe and however you appear, you’ll feel welcome and safe here. Heck, even white heterosexual males are welcome here!

While Provincetown’s colorful shops, restaurants, bars and art galleries are a prime attarction, one is quickly out of the center and can enjoy quiet residential streets and beachfront shacks, equally interesting to explore.

But the main attraction of the outer cape remains the miles of unspoiled sand dunes, national seashore, sleepy fishing towns and wildlife.

We hiked the sand dunes, dinghied out to the tip at Long Point, walked the sand bars at low tide, and fished.

Seals are abundant and pop up a few yards off of the beaches, apparently as curious to observe humans as humans are to observe seals! Although we weren’t fortunate enough to see any, the cold waters around the Outer Cape are a favorite hangout for a variety of species of whales. Lastly, in the wildlife department, something we were surprised to encounter were wild coyotes walking along the beaches!

A highlight of the visit for Dan was walking by a booth on Commercial Street raising funds for the West End Racing Club. This non-profit sailing club, exclusively for kids, was founded and initially funded by local benefactors. When Dan was 7 years old, he had the opportunity to learn to sail here. The “lesson” consisted of being pushed out into Cape Cod Bay in a Sunfish, alone. After about an hour in irons (not being able to fill the sail with wind), he finally got it and began sailing briskly toward the tip of the Cape. Not wanting to risk losing the wind in the sail, he didn’t want to turn about and just kept going, overjoyed to be sailing under his own command! Eventually, the club sent a chase boat to turn him around so that he could sail back. An unforgettable experience that was influential in a life of sailing to follow.

Enough words. Pictures tell the story best.