We left Portsmouth, NH early this morning for the 70-nautical-mile crossing to the tip of Cape Cod. Six hours later, about 10 miles out from Provincetown, we could just make out the needle shape of the 252-foot Pilgrim Monument, an unmistakable landmark. As we rounded the sandy tip of the Cape, so did a classic schooner, a whale-watching boat, and the fast ferry from Boston, all assuring us we were getting close to Provincetown.
What makes Provincetown so special? Is it the miles of pristine, sandy Atlantic seashore? The salt marshes, alive with all kinds of plant and animal life? Traditions like the blessing of the Portuguese fishing fleet? The tolerance for all kinds of people? Gaudy Commercial Street, with its colorful shops and permanent flow of people? The quiet neighborhoods with meticulously maintained cottages and gardens? Or maybe it’s the plethora of art galleries and bookstores?
I think it’s a little of each. And it’s a place where, no matter who you are, you feel welcome.
Without planning it, we arrived during the annual Portuguese Festival and the 78th annual Blessing of the Fleet. Portuguese immigrants began arriving in Provincetown in the 1840s, seeking opportunity in the thriving fishing and whaling industries. At its peak, the Portuguese community made up over 20% of the population. That number has diminished significantly, but the Portuguese heritage remains an important and celebrated part of the town’s identity and culture. Over the weekend, the town was draped in Portuguese flags. Ryder Street was converted into a bandstand and dance floor. Everyone was invited to be Portuguese for a few days.
On Sunday, fishing boats decorated with flags and overflowing with family and friends lined up just outside the main breakwater, then proceeded into the harbor in single file, passing alongside a docked ship where a priest blessed each vessel as it went by, sprinkling holy water to ensure its safety for the new season. After the fishing vessels came everyone else. We joined the procession in our inflatable dinghy, probably the smallest vessel in the lineup. Hopefully the blessing applies to Fregata too.
Otherwise, we climbed the Pilgrim Monument to take in the view, and hiked the mile-long causeway from town to the outermost part of the Cape, enjoying close-up views of the salt marshes along the way. We checked out a few art galleries. I took a dinghy ride out to see the seals that hang out near the tip of the Cape, and stopped by the West End Racing and Children’s Community Sailing Center, where I learned to sail 60 years ago.
We capped off the weekend with a delicious foot-long hot dog at John’s.
